MAKING SUB 2KG CINEMA FPV DRONES POSSIBLE
For information on assembly and other helpful videos, please visit the Pigeon 3.0 Rotorbuilds page.
Check out my GrabCAD page for 3D printing your own spare TPU parts and accessories for video stabilization tools.
Summary of Features
- LCD extension system enables quick and reliable access to camera settings and image preview
- Manual switches for turning the camera on/off and recording
- Rugged carbon fiber and TPU design protects the valuable PCBs in minor crashes
- Cooling fan prevents the CPU from overheating on the bench
- Silicone soft mounting of the PCB allows room for movement during hard impacts
- BetaGel extra soft mounts filter out vibrations for smooth footage
- "Travel Mode" is achieved by removing the two thumbscrews and folding the lens mount down flat
Specifications
- This kits fits the BMPCC4K only, not the 6K
- Camera cage is 2.5mm thick carbon fiber and LCD case is 2.0mm
- Camera cage when fully assembled weighs just under 400g
- Naked LCD case measures 168x78x14mm and weighs 120g
- Mounting hole dimensions for the camera cage are 90x124mm rectangular (for those of you that wish to design their own drone frames for this product)
- Tilt angle range for the lens is +45 degrees to -30 degrees.
Kit Includes
- Carbon fiber frame parts
- 18 inch wire jumper cable
- Monitor extension flex PCB
- LCD jumper cable flex PCB
- REC/ON-OFF flex PCB
- FFC cables
- Power port PCB with Pico EZmate cable and JST PH 2.0 connector pair
- Mini CPU cooling Fan
- Tactile record button
- Mechanical ON/OFF switch
- XT30 male and female connector
- XT30 PCB board mount
- 4X 3D printed washer spacers for BetaGels
- 3D printed TPU accessories
- 3D printed Nylon lens mount
- 3D printed Nylon LCD buttons housing
- Stainless Steel screws and nuts
- M3 standoffs
- Ummagrip
- 2X 250mm battery straps
- 4X BetaGel extra soft bushings
- Silicone tubing for PCB Damping
- EMF shielding tape
Kit does not include the Blackmagic Pocket 4K Cinema Camera or assembly tools.
LCD Extension Installation
Follow the guide below to properly install your upgrade LCD extension kit for proper fit and function:
The PCB extension adapter comes with a 3D printed shoulder washer/spacer and stainless steel washer plus hex nut. These are necessary for locking the PCB rigidly to the camera motherboard without putting stress on either PCB, but ensuring that the adapter stays connected and secured to the main camera board.
For Pigeon 3.0 cage owners, installation order of the hardware is shown in the above photo with the main camera PCB going in between the black 3D printed shoulder screw and the M2 hex nut
Tighten the LCD extension PCB to the camera motherboard with the screw assembly so that the 3D printed spacer goes between the PCB extension and the camera motherboard. After tightening the M2 hex nut you can install the original silicone tubing spacer.
Check the image above for proper order and alignment of the hardware bits. The 3D printed shoulder washer is in between there, but not visible due to the shadows.
Next up is the monitor extension PCB! Use two small strips of 3M VHB mounting tape and stick them on the back of the PCB. You can use any other strong double sided acrylic foam-based tape that is about 0.5mm thick.
Align the monitor extension PCB with the back of the LCD and stick it down and connect all the plugs. NOTE the above image is the new version of the LCD case which uses 1mm carbon fiber side plates to secure the connector plug in place to prevent stress on the LCD when mating the connectors.
If you have the Pigeon 3.0 cage LCD case you will use a provided TPU brace that slides and clicks around the connector and provides support for the plug. If you need another, you can find the STL for that HERE. Download the "PCB Brace V5" part file.
After adhering the the monitor extension PCB to the back of the LCD and connecting the ribbon connectors, slide the TPU PCB brace onto the connector until the internal latch engages and clicks into place. You may not hear a click since it is TPU, but you can tell visually when the bump is gone and the surface is flat.
Sensor Ribbon Cable Installation
Before starting, you may optionally want to wrap the FFC cables in a protective cloth tape such as Tesa 51036 tape. This protects the FFC cables from wear and tear against the carbon fiber while making camera angle adjustments. It also makes it look a bit more professional.
You can find this tape at most big online retailers like Ebay or Amazon.
Use two lengths of tape per FFC cable to fold around the edge and have some overlap.
This is the end result. Are you excited now!? Let's get started...
First insert a 100mm FFC jumper cable into the connector facing outward by sliding the cable into the connector while the black latch is raised up. Then lock the latch down gently, but firmly.
Then insert a 120mm long FFC cable into the remaining connector. Be sure to press the cable in all the way by using a fingernail or tool to push on the blue stiffener tab.
Install the rectangular 3D printed backer by slipping the TPU part over the Molex mezzanine connector. Be sure to match orientation exactly to the picture above. There are pockets designed into the backer to allow clearance for PCB components on the camera board like resistors and capacitors. If the orientation is wrong, the cable will not be pluggable.
Next slip on the other 3D printed backer onto the other FFC PCB converter. This backer is different and has a small cutout to avoid the sensor shims on the camera. Match the orientation to the picture above. Do not attach this side to the cable yet.
Plug in the main board side by pressing the connector into place. Be sure to not put any bending stress onto the camera PCB by bracing your fingers underneath to support the PCB while you press the connector on.
Place the top plate onto the cage and feed the loose ends of the cable through the cutout in the carbon fiber.
Guide the FFC cables around the screw and standoff to avoid pinching. Then fasten the remaining screws to secure the top of the cage.
Insert the loose FFC ends into the other PCB converter board. Ensure that the FFC ends are inserted to their fullest extent and are flush and square with the connectors.
Press the connector into place while supporting the sensor PCB from the back side to prevent any bending stress on the camera components. That's it you are done!
Top Buttons Installation
The rigid PCB Top Buttons assembly is very similar to the original FPC design, but requires you to utilize some origami skills to fold the FFC cables down nice and flat.
First use double-sided mounting tape to adhere the PCB to the empty space on the camera motherboard. Align the bottom left corner of the PCB with the corner of the motherboard.
If you plan to use the tactile REC and ON/OFF switches, solder the two wire leads to the exposed pads. The red momentary switch goes to the REC pads and the toggle switch goes to the ON/OFF pads. The wire order does not matter for either of these switches. Solder them in a way to avoid the FFC cables as much as possible.
Then insert the 22-pin FFC cable into the left connector as shown above and lock down the black latch.
Next insert the othe rend of the cable into the 22-pin connector on the PCB and lock down the black latch.
Then fold and crease the FFC cable so that it lays flat. Don't worry about breaking the cable, folding it once won't break the circuits.
The tally 8-pin FFC able is a bit more tricky. First insert one end into the small PCB connector and lock down the black latch.
Then fold it to the right as shown above.
Then fold the other end downward so that it is in-line with the tally connector on the motherboard.
Fold the end back up so that it is aligned with the connector opening.
Insert this end into the connector and lock down the connector latch.